Need-To-Know Designers and Rising New York Brands
One of the most exciting things about the NYC fashion scene is the pool of undiscovered talent. People flock to the city from all over the world to hone their skills and share their work with the masses. And, year after year, new talent is discovered and our closets are forever changed in the process.
Here are a few of our most recent need-to-know designers and rising New York brands.
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Tanner Fletcher
After first meeting as roommates at the University of Minnesota, Tanner Richie and Fletcher Kasell fell in love and, together, found their way to New York City to study merchandising at LIM College. But after graduation, the two were forced to move back to the Midwest during the global Covid-19 pandemic. In an effort to stay creatively stimulated, the two began designing tote bags and accessories from home. Soon enough, local shops began buying their designs and the two began venturing into constructing actual ready-to-wear pieces.
Tanner Fletcher launched their very first collection for Spring/Summer 2022. Not long after—in the Spring of 2023—the brand gained its first major recognition when Bad Bunny wore their now-recognizable bow suit for TIME Magazine. With fans like Julia Fox and Kacey Musgraves, Tanner Fletcher specializes in making genderless fashion, often showcasing lace, ruche and bows. A natural extension of these details, Tanner Fletcher recently launched a wedding collection brimming with French lace, blue velvet and, yes, the celebrated bow suit.
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Diotima
Jamaican-born designer Rachel Scott launched Diotma in 2021 after a 16-year career in Milan and NYC. A highly technical designer, Scott’s designs are rooted in a reverence for craft and construction — with a thoughtful focus on materials. Renowned for its crochet sourced from artisanal communities in Jamaica, Diotima strives to blend Caribbean and European traditions through its use of fine materials and unexpected designs.
Calling on her Caribbean background, Scott’s sensual designs are often evocative of summertime with warm, vivid palettes and embroidered details that call to mind the natural landscape of Jamaica. With broderie anglaise lace referencing palm trees and weed leaves and hand-stitched seashells adorning their shimmery fabrics, Diotima’s designs stand out in a city so well-known for its penchant for a more minimalist aesthetic.
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Kallmeyer
Kallmeyer was launched in 2012 by South African-born Daniella Kallmeyer. And though the brand itself has been around for quite some time, Kallmeyer’s first flagship store wasn’t opened until 2019. Five years later, Kallmeyer finally held her first official runway show, showcasing her Spring/Summer 2025 collection.
Beloved by fashion editors, Kallmeyer is a downtown favorite with a loyal fan base, including actor and comedian Chloe Fineman. Striking a balance between the masculine and feminine, Kallmeyer’s designs are often defined by their attention to detail and minimalist aesthetic. Featuring clean lines and tailored silhouettes in luxurious fabrics, Kallmeyer specializes in elevated essentials and a timelessness reflective of the brand’s sense of endurance.
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Zankov
Recipient of the 2024 CFDA Emerging Designer of the Year award, Russian-born Henry Zankov first launched his brand in 2019 after years of working for brands like Donna Karan and DVF. Already an experienced knitwear designer and self-proclaimed “stitch-geek”, it’s no wonder Zankov’s playful knitwear has garnered attention for its wide range of knitting techniques and array of colorful, bold yarns.
In a successful attempt to stray from tradition, Zankov’s knitwear comes only in the most unexpected of silhouettes and merging of textures. It’s this sense of rebelliousness and independent spirit that has garnered Zankov its cult status. There is an irreverence to his designs that call to mind the attitude of the alt-rock and post-punk bands the designer was raised on. With his subversive sense of style, Zankov pushes the boundaries of knitwear and, consequently, today’s own fashion scene.
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Colleen Allen
Formerly of The Row, Colleen Allen debuted her ready-to-wear label at New York Fashion Week just last year. Raised in Chicago, Allen initially studied at Parsons before heading abroad to Central Saint Martins to further hone her skills. After fine-tuning her skill set with three years at The Row—a line lauded for its immaculate tailoring—Allen began the journey of synthesizing her interests and aesthetic with her technical savvy.
The result is a debut collection first inspired by the tarot deck of Surrealist artist Leonora Carrington. Revolving around themes of female identity and spirituality, Allen called upon the archetype of “the witch” as she began the design process. Yes, you’ll find Victorian touches like intricately-seamed bodices and ruffled pantalettes—but in bold, modern tones evoking a sense of empowerment and fearlessness. The independence of these designs stands out—they’re feminine but not overtly so, ethereal and dreamy but not indulgent. There is an effortless elegance to the way in which Allen interprets “witchy” that feels refreshing, like something we haven’t seen before. Bewitching? Yes, and it should be no surprise that Allen’s strong designs have garnered a fanbase including the likes of Charli xcx.
WORDS Hillary Sproul
FEATURE IMAGES one and two