07.27.2016 | posted 1 year, 5 months ago
Al Fresco, All the Time: Outdoor Dining Hits at the Bowery Market
New York’s food market trend shows no sign of slowing down. In Brooklyn, Smorgasburg is back for another season; that Nordic food hall from NOMA founder Claus Meyer finally opened at Grand Central earlier this summer; and, as of last week, Nolita has the Bowery Market, an outdoor grub outpost at the corner of Great Jones and Bowery.
The former boarded-up autobody shop is now home to five kiosks made from reclaimed materials like corrugated tin and plywood, operated by beloved nearby restaurants. Hip vegetarian cafe the Butcher’s Daughter is slinging cold pressed juice, avocado toast, and kale Caesar salads, while Pulqueria, also from owner Heather Tierney, is cultivating a beachy Mexican vibe, she says.
Pulqueria has tacos covered—everything from chipotle chicken to grilled fish—and booze, too, in the form of pulque, a less refined cousin of tequila, or a piña colada served in a hollowed-out pineapple. For dessert, there’s “helado suave (Mexican soft-serve ice cream), in daily flavors like chili-chocolate, avocado-coconut, and sweet corn,” Tierney enthuses. “We even have a dessert called El Chapo,” after the infamous drug kingpin, “soft-serve ice cream in a house-made churro cone. It’s insane!”
Notably, sushi bad boy David Bouhadana is back at the raw-fish game after his departure from East Village hot spot Sushi Dojo last year. He’s a partner at a new concept called Sushi on Jones, offering affordably priced bento boxes filled with simple rolls and nigiri made from daily fresh fish—no spicy tuna rolls here. He’s also serving a daily-changing $50 omakase, or chef’s tasting, at his pod’s four counter seats.
And for old-school types who still eat carbs, Soho Grand lunch favorite Alidoro is slinging their coveted Italian sandwiches, prepared simply with top-quality ingredients. Try the Fellini, with spicy sopressata, arugula, fresh mozzarella and hot peppers. For caffeine needs, Champion Coffee out of Greenpoint, Brooklyn, is on hand with cold-brew and cortados (there’s even a delicious maple cortado), along with cookies and croissants.
Tierney, who owns the Butcher’s Daughter and co-owns Pulqueria with her brother Christopher, says she was drawn to the project because “the concept seems so unique for New York City—it has more of a California vibe.” To that end, “one thing we are debuting at Bowery Market is the surfer’s breakfast, our breakfast burrito that we sell at our Venice [Los Angeles] restaurant. It’s very Cali and fits right in at this summer kiosk,” she says. Tierney reports that since the market’s debut last week, the Butcher’s Daughter’s #06 Water Flower juice (with watermelon, fennel, honeydew, cactus pear, lavender, lime) “has been flying out the door.” If she stays on through winter, she plans to add the popular Butcher’s grilled cheese with tomato soup to the stand’s menu and tortas, hearty Mexican sandwiches, to Pulqueria’s offerings.
The market, which is slated to operate year round, is the project of Scott Marano, a food lover and local real estate developer. “We wanted to create a neighborhood market for anyone to easily grab a meal on-the-go,” he says. And it’s not just a boon to downtown lunchers: the place serves breakfast starting at 8am, and even dinner, until 9pm.
Words by Jenny Miller